By Chris Elder
After three sea days from Abu Dhabi, Sue and I were ready to get back on dry land and were looking forward to our adventure to the famous Taj Mahal. This excursion would require a two hour taxi ride to the Cochin International Airport, a three hour flight to, and an overnight stay in Delhi and a three hour car ride to Agra. Before we could leave the port, however, we had to have our visas activated with an in person visit to Indian Immigration. Having completed this task relatively quickly, we were then able to go off on our own on a wild cab ride to the Cochin Airport through a deluge of monsoon fueled pounding rain.
Our introduction to India started with pedestrian and auto traffic the likes of which we have never experienced anywhere. Bicycles, motorcycles, scooters, three-wheeled “tuc tucs”, every form of cab, truck and vehicle you could imagine all competing in an endless dance of squeezing into nonexistent lanes of traffic. Colorfully dressed and highly courageous pedestrians who apparently have absolutely no rights in traffic courageously dart in and out of the honking and beeping chaos carrying children, packages and hardware. In spite of up to five vehicles across just inches apart on roads designed for two to three, we managed to arrive at the airport relieved, alive and unscathed.
Once at the airport, things were pretty much as normal as one would expect at any other airport. The flight to Delhi was uneventful and another short, albeit wild, cab ride to our hotel followed. The Radisson Blu Plaza Hotel was highly secure, modern, well appointed and the staff went out of their way to insure our comfort. Before heading up to bed, the business center staff helped us print our vouchers so we would be ready for our six am tour the next morning. Since we left before the restaurant opened for breakfast, the hotel provided us a nice take away breakfast as we departed for the ride to Agra.
Our private car was prompt and full of complimentary water, drinks and candy and off we went as our driver skillfully negotiated the traumatic Delhi traffic on our way out of town. It took about forty-five minutes to get outside the city and on to the modern expressway before we could sit back and relax for the three hour trip to Agra. Flat farmland dotted by small villages, the occasional toll station and the smoking chimneys of brick factories made up the scenery for most of our drive. The occasional motorcycle with three or more passengers including the brightly dressed Hindu woman sitting side saddle on the back made for some interesting photos as we sped down the expressway.
Finally arriving in Agra, the insane traffic congestion ensued and picking up our guide, we arrived in the area of the Taj Mahal. Our tour included a ride to the gate via a horse drawn cart and after precariously climbing onto the rickety contraption we were off again threading our way through the cabs, tuc tucs, souvenir vendors and never ending procession of people. There is never a question of what country you’re traveling in when you see the sea of human existence spilling out everywhere. Arriving at the gate, there are actually three, one for each of the Emperor’s wives, we climbed down and joined the throng for our tour. The Taj Mahal is a monument built over the remains of Emperor Shah Jahan’s beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal, and is constructed of stunning white marble. As I have done in my previous blogs, I’ll leave the history for the reader to explore and simply try to give you a feel of our experience through the photos.
As we followed our guide through the gardens and buildings surrounding the monument we suddenly became aware that we were a subject of interest to the locals. We were asked to pose for selfies which grew to full photos with families and then what seemed like hundreds of people wanting to be photographed with us. Finally our guide stepped in and told us to politely refuse the requests so we could get on with our tour. He told us that many of the local people had never seen a westerner other than in magazines and on TV and our presence was quite unique to them. I have to admit that being a moviestar in India was quite unique to us as well.
After completing our tour of the Taj Mahal and under the age old pretense of seeing a demonstration on how things are made, the guide delivered us to a shop that produced semi-precious stone inlay products and another that produced local jewlery. We are pretty used to this tactic but these shops actually had a few items we liked and much to the delight of our guide, we made a few purchases where I’m sure he was richly rewarded by the shop keepers for his efforts. I politely asked him to keep to our tour itinerary and from then on he happily complied.
An authentic Indian lunch followed at a local hotel and I must say that if you like Indian food, you would have been in heaven here. The amount and spread of food was incredible but unfortunately, no matter how hard I try, I just can’t get used to the spice combinations and exotic flavors. This author is a simple meat and potatos guy and as usual I survived on white rice, chicken and cold beer. Sorry foodies, Andrew Bordain I am not!
We completed our day with a tour of Agra Fort which I found to be almost as interesting as the Taj Mahal. It has been in continuous operation as a military facility for over 500 years and still has a military contingent assigned today. It is a dominating collection of structures including palaces, gardens, a prison, and at one time a moat filled with crocodiles and another dry moat full of tigers. Walking around in the facility was impressive to say the least, not to mention warding off our paparazzi, but the intense heat finally got the better of us and we were quickly ushered back to the safety and comfort of our air conditioned car. Dropping off our guide we were soon on our way back to Delhi for more Indian food for dinner (Oh boy!) and a final night’s rest at the Radisson.
Breakfast next morning was again Indian but there was fresh fruit and delicious baked goodies for me so you needn’t worry about my wasting away. Off to the airport at ten am where we had no trouble catching our international flight to Sri Lanka (Of course Indian food was served for lunch) where we would meet up again with the Majestic Princess. After a brief stop at customs before boarding we were back on board where I proceeded directly to the grill for a burger, fries and of course a very cold beer. We are now cruising in the Indian Ocean and will arrive in Penang in a couple of days where we will report on our next exciting adventure.
Ciao for now,
Chris and Sue Elder